Netsuke Toggles and Okimono Ornaments: The Tradition of Ivory Carving

Ivory carving for interior ornaments, or okimono, developed from the tradition of meticulous ivory carving for netsuke that flourished in particular around the mid-19th century, at the end of the Edo period.

Netsuke were initially used as toggles tied to the end of inro medicine cases, tobacco cases, and precious belongings, to carry them by hanging from the waist. Eventually, however, they became fashion accessories to represent the wearers’ tastes. This resulted in the production of elaborately formed, designed, and crafted netsuke. Many ivory works, notably figures and animals, demonstrate the artisans’ expertise as well.

As Western fashion spread from the time of modernization in the Meiji era, which is the last quarter of the 19th century, netsuke gradually became obsolete. Instead, ivory carving techniques for netsuke came to be applied to ornament making. Ornaments of figures and animals, therefore, often display features common to netsuke. These ivory carved netsuke and ornaments became popular among Westerners who visited Japan from overseas, and as early as the beginning of the Meiji period, ivory okimono became favorites of exported Japanese decorative art. Ivory okimono were once so dominate that they were reputed to have “whitened the world of sculpture.

Many of the okimono made in the Meiji era were exported to the West and few works remain in Japan. However, the Tokyo National Museum collection includes a number of outstanding works displayed at international expositions at the time. This exhibit features these works and presents the tradition and evolution that has continued on from the Edo period since the 17th century until today.