The Art of Fashion | 17th–19th century
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“Kosode” (Garment with small wrist openings), Design of “noshi” strips and chrysanthemums on a white figured-satin ground, Edo period, 17th-18th century
Japanese Gallery (Honkan) Room 10
August 18, 2020 (Tue) - October 18, 2020 (Sun)Japan's traditional clothing, kimono, are based on kosode — the outer wear of the Edo period (1603–1868). At first, the court nobility and samurai wore under other clothing. But from about the 15th century, the samurai began using them as daily outer wear. In the 17th century, kosode became the most common clothing for men and women of all classes.
Wealthy women placed orders for custom–made kosode at luxury clothing stores. They often chose the patterns from clothing–design books that were published and widely circulated. Together with these kosode, they wore hairpins and combs to accent their elaborate hairstyles.
In contrast, men wore kosode with understated patterns like stripes or checks.
Their usual fashion accessory was a small case (inrō) and a toggle (netsuke) for securing the case to the sash. This gallery features kosode and accessories, together with prints and paintings (ukiyo–e) showing how people wore them and how fashions changed over time.
| Designation | Name | Creation/ Excavation/ Provenance |
Period | Acquisition/ Ownership/ Accession Number |
CMT | ||
| Highlight | “Kosode” (Garment with small wrist openings), Design of “noshi” strips and chrysanthemums on a white figured-satin ground | Edo period, 17th-18th century | I-4285 | ||||
| Highlight | “Kosode” (Garment with small wrist openings), Cloud, cherry blossom, and clematis blossom design on white figured satin ground | Edo period, 17th century | I-2932 | ||||
| Highlight | “Kosode” (Garment with small wrist openings), Design of chrysanthemums, eulalia grass, fences, and water on a yellowish green “chirimen”-crepe ground | Edo period, 18th century | I-3928 | ||||
| Highlight | “Inro” (Medicine case), Chrysanthemum flower and butterfly design in inlay | Meiji era, 19th century | H-769 |